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@A16ab That’s reasonable. I won’t bet no in this market, but a 40 or 50 percent chance sounds about right. I won’t be able to climb for two months this year, which leaves me just over five months.
@Alice Four grades sounds about right to start :) This will get better as you get the clipping mechanics and head game more dialed, but ultimately you're making more movements than on toprope so it's harder.
But yes, it can be enjoyable! I find a greater sense of accomplishment when completing a difficult-for-me lead climb compared to TR; pushing my limit on lead and taking a good fall (when the fall is safe) is super fun/exhilarating; and leading (or having someone who can lead) is a prerequisite for multipitch climbing which can get you to some really amazing places--even more so with trad climbing, but there are sport multipitch climbs out there as well!
@jcb It's kind of terrible right now, but that's encouraging to know that one day it might be enjoyable! What helped you get good at lead climbing (for both the physical and mental aspects)?
@Alice Hm! I think mostly just spending time doing it??
One exercise I remember finding helpful early on was hanging a quickdraw on the wall (maybe from a door handle) and tying in and practicing clipping -- sitting below the draw / standing, on either side, with both hands, with the gate pointing both ways. It's not quite the same as doing it while hanging onto a hold / with rope weight, but it was still useful to build some muscle memory for different techniques.
I've read some suggestions for practice fall progressions to help overcome fear while leading, but I haven't tried that myself. (Maybe I should; I still find myself scared when I have no need to be. So far I've been able to manage by checking the situation, confirming that a fall is almost certainly safe, and if it is, telling myself so out loud and pushing on. But I'm probably not climbing at my best then!)
@Alice before a recent injury, i was top-roping 12a leading 11b inside. outside, the hardest thing i’ve led is 10a and the hardest i’ve set is a 9
i’m not an especially avid outdoor climber but all that is to say you will definitely start out leading at a much lower grade than what you’re used to.
I've booked a lead climbing class. One day I'll grow up to become my climbing hero.
@Alice Sounds promising. You should focus on becoming a better climber, (and less on becoming a sculptor ; )).
@DanielBalchev I've never lead climbed before! I've only toproped or followed outdoors a few times, always with guides. Other information that might be useful is that I'm new to climbing (one year) and not great at it. Toproping is all right, but I hate bouldering. And lead climbing up to the first clip sounds suspiciously like bouldering.
@DanielBalchev The only reason I'd want to lead is to see Mount Moran someday, so no clip stick there, sadly. I wish!
@Alice Looks really beautiful (:
You can still climb small sports routes in preparation?
@DanielBalchev Yes, sport climbing, even the easiest grades, would cause this market to resolve yes as long as it’s outdoors. I imagine it’ll take three to five years before I’d go meet Moran, so I’d just like to start somewhere!